You can (and should) add a current meter to this configuration. The laser community would benefit greatly if we only shared current values (mA) specific to a certain wattage tube and forget about the arbitrary and terribly inaccurate “%”. Percentages vary so wildly i firmly believe those values should never be discussed. The big problem is, and we see it hundreds of times a day, is the “what speed and power do i use for etching edge lit acrylic?”. Digital panels alone are a horribly misleading monstrosity when not used with an add-on DC milliammeter. People who fitted an ammeter have reported 15mA as being anywhere between 30% and 90% on the digital panel. It is not calibrated to the tube specifications so the digital setting is quite literally a very poor guess. M3 Hex Standoffs into to the white panel, M3 screws to secure the board, and a drill-tap combo bit set is a quick way to take care of this.100 percent on the digital panel means 100 percent of the total output of the power supply, not 100% of the the laser tube. For some, their board had a different mounting hole pattern and so some work will be required to make new holes to mount this. For the majority of customers, the screw holes line up and the new board is a drop in replacement. Unplug the wires going to the stock circuit board, remove the white panel. Removing the nuts was enough to free the panel. Here there are 3 nuts, 2 on the bottom and 1 on the left side. Loosen up the screws/ nuts holding the white panel in place. I call this the “No Ribbon and White JST Connector Power Supply” Variant: Take a good picture of your stock electronics in case you need to backtrack later. We will do our best to address the different ways and if something seems different in your machine than what you see here, please ask! There are multiple ways these come wired.

Shown are some possible configurations of the K40.

Congratulations on your purchase of a Cohesion3D LaserBoard!

K40 cohesion3d